Tritrichomonas foetus

What is Tritrichomonas foetus?

In layman terms? it’s a single-celled organism. The longer version of this critter is that this is a flagellate, a single-celled organism possessing hair or lash-like structures, called “flagella,” on its “body” which wiggle around allowing the ugly bug to move. Tritrichomonas foetus is commonly mistaken for Giardia, another pesky parasitic flagellate as they both use “flagella” to move around and both have similar shaped bodies.

How do cats get infected with Tritrichomonas foetus?

The Tritrichomonas foetus organisms are in the feces (poop) of an infected cat. The most common transmission happens when multiple cats share a litter box, this is where the organism can live up to 3 days in fecal material (poop). Any time the cat or cats step into the litter box, they can possibly step in the feces of a potential infected cat or cats, there, the organisms can be transferred to the paws and nails of your cats and then while cleaning and grooming themselves, enter the body of the cat through the mouth.

What are the symptoms of Tritrichomonas foetus?

Tritrichomonas foetus colonizes the lower intestine of the cat causing the mucous and sometimes bloody diarrhea that characterizes colitis. If the colon is biopsied, inflammatory cell infiltration typical of inflammatory bowel disease will be seen. Not all infected cats have diarrhea; many cats especially older ones have no symptoms at all but are still contagious to other cats.

Because colitis can have so many causes, it is important to keep this possible cause in mind. Chronic colitis may or may not respond to symptomatic treatment and if a specific underlying cause can be identified and treated, a long-term difficult problem can be potentially resolved permanently. Many colitis remedies will lead to temporary improvement for a Tritrichomonas-infected cat but the symptoms generally come right back after treatment ceases.

Diagnosis of Tritrichomonas foetus

There are presently four testing methods that can be used to identify Tritrichomonas foetus in a cats fecal sample. It is important that a proper fecal sample be taken from your cat, not the typical scoop it up from the litter box sample! For testing the fecal sample must be freshly obtained with a deeply inserted fecal loop, or flushed from the colon with a syringe. If the cat has been on antibiotics, this will interfere with testing; the cat should be completely off antibiotics for at least a couple of days!

Direct Smear

Fecal matter is swabbed onto a microscope slide, mixed with a saline solution, and examined for the presence of flagellate organisms. The feces must be immediately fresh from the rectum. The more fresh and more mucous In the animals sample, the better for testing. Usually multiple slides must be examined as this pesky organism is very elusive. Standard fecal tests for parasites will not pick up this organism. Refrigeration of the sample will kill the organism and make it impossible to detect. Again as stated above, If the cat is on antibiotics the number of organisms available to detect will be greatly reduced even though most antibiotics cannot cure the infection.

While this is a relatively easy test to perform, it only has about a smaller chance of detecting a natural Tritrichomonas foetus infection. A more sensitive test is generally preferred.

Culture (also called the “Pouch Test” Best method!)

A special culture bag can be used to grow Tritrichomonas foetus in numbers large enough for detection. The feces used must be freshly obtained from the rectum as stated before, inoculated into the pouch, and the pouch is kept in a vertical position for 12 days at room temperature. The pouch is periodically examined under the microscope for the presence of organisms.

This is the test method of choice in most cases as it is easy to perform, reasonably priced and generally accurate.

PCR Testing (Polymerase Chain Reaction Testing)

PCR testing is a DNA test for the presence of Tritrichomonas foetus. A larger fecal sample is needed and the test must be done at a reference lab. It is generally reserved for patients where the Pouch test has been negative but the index of suspicion is still high.

PCR testing is the most sensitive of all the test methods but is also fairly expensive. Specialized equipment is needed and only a few laboratories are qualified to run samples.

Biopsy

A routine colon biopsy is unlikely to find this parasite; special stains on the tissue (“immunohistochemistry”) must be requested and at least six tissue samples must be examined. This is the most invasive form of testing and would not be done right off the bat but if the cat is going to have a biopsy for chronic colitis anyway, it might be a good idea to have the pathologist look for Tritrichomonas foetus.

Keep in mind! A negative test result does not rule out Tritrichomonas infection
no matter which test is performed.

Treatment for Tritrichomonas foetus

In the past, several different antibiotics have been reported to be effective on Tritrichomonas foetus.

The only drug that is felt to be reliable against Tritrichomonas foetus is ronidazole, and its use is far from straight-forward. Here is information you should to know:

Ronidazole must be compounded to get a dose in a suitable size for cats.

Ronidazole is not licensed for use in cats; it is a poultry antibiotic. It also tastes very bad and should be provided in capsules rather than as an oral liquid (It tastes horrible!).

You must handle with care if you choose to administer the drug! You must wear gloves when handling Ronidazole.

The most common side effect in cats when treating with Ronidazole is neurotoxicity which means it is not appropriate to use Ronidazole as a trial to see if a cat with colitis improves on it. Ronidazole should be used only in confirmed Tritrichomonas foetus feline patients!

Neurotoxicity effects: loss of appetite, incoordination, and possibly seizures. Some experts recommend engaging the cat in play on a daily basis to assess muscular coordination and agility.

Cats being treated should be isolated from other cats in the home to prevent reinfection!

It is not possible to fully confirm that An infection has been eradicated as a negative PCR test does not rule out infection. Experts recommend a PCR test in 1-2 weeks after treatment and again approximately 20 weeks after treatment.

Ronidazole is usually given once daily for two weeks. The diarrhea should be resolved by the end of this course if all goes well with treatment.

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What is Taurine?

Taurine is an amino acid that cats, all breeds, cannot synthesize on their own. They acquire taurine through consuming meat, there is no taurine at all available in fruits, veggies or grains. Most cat food companies add in a small amount of taurine to try to cover the daily needs of the cats.

In addition, feeding just raw meat or raw diet can also leave cats deficient in this area because the level of taurine is not calculated or, in some cases, known. The parts of the body that are high in taurine are the brain, eye and heart (usually not used in raw feeding). The most important thing to note here is that no matter what food you’re feeding, you need to know that it either has a supplemented amount of taurine or YOU are supplementing the taurine.

Without taurine, cats will eventually suffer from DCM (dilated cardiomyopathy) (resulting in heart failure) and retinal degeneration. At its worst, taurine deficiency can leave a cat permanently blind and with a rapidly deteriorating heart. This can happen within as little as a few months. Taurine deficiency can also cause problems with breeding cat mothers like spontaneous abortions, abnormal newborns, development problems, or kittens who “fail to thrive”, etc.

It’s important to ensure that your cat is receiving somewhere between 100 and 300mg of taurine per day (check the back of your food packaging, if you’re not sure and always consult your vet before administering any food supplement or medication).

Those of you who have had pets diagnosed with eye and heart conditions or have had females with abnormal reproductive status or problems–speak with your veterinarian about taurine supplementation.
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Is your Sphynx a couch potato?

Do cats get bored? Can they become “couch potatoes?” Absolutely! A sphynx cats natural instinct in the wild is to hunt, stalk, and pounce ever since the day it could stand on all fours. Lot’s of folks think “well, a cat would make a good pet because they don’t need much, just some food and a warm place to sleep and a pet here and there.”

That is as far from the truth as it can get! This is how your cat will become a “couch potato!” Although your cat is far from mild and is domesticated he or she needs to have a life! I’m not saying drive yourself crazy trying to entertain your pet, jut be creative! For a couple bucks you can have your cat using his or her natural instincts and keeping him off the “couch,” and not “bored” to death during the day when everyone is at work or you are away for a few hours. A second cat as a companion will surely keep your sphynx cat entertained during the day but it’s not always the answer or even possible in some house holds.

Here are some ideas, how about a bird feeder in a strategic place near a favorite window perch your sphynx cat loves to bask in during the day? This will keep him occupied for a few hours and they love the stalking feeling of this and the best part about it, no one gets hurt your cat or the cute little birdie! Do you have a cat perch or two? Your Sphynx cat loves high places! This is like climbing a tree in the wild.

How about some choice cat toys or toys with catnip? Spread them around the house, encourage your cat to play with them by throwing them across the room! Once he knows they are play things he will pounce them, bite them and like most toys they will end up in your couch!

Another cool idea is to take a plastic bottle, cut holes just big enough for his or her favorite dry kibble with a few treats as well if you would like and let him spend hours pushing it around and trying to figure out how to get those yummy snacks out. The hole should be just big enough where he has to manipulate the snacks out with his little sphynx paws. Practice with this exercise to be sure he or she can retrieve the snacks without too much of a fight or it will not be pleasant and fun for your kitty.

All these things i’ve mentioned are also a good healthy exercise for your sphynx companion! Keep that cat of the couch and entertained during the day while there by themselves and try some of these cool ideas!

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Sphynx Skin Conditions

Contact Dermatitis: Symptoms include red, itchy bumps and inflamed skin where your Sphynx cat had made contact with a chemical or another type of irritant. It can also be caused by rubber or plastic food bowels or dishes. The best way to prevent contact dermatitis is to keep Sphynx away from areas where chemicals are being used and to feed your Sphynx with glass, stainless steel, or lead-free ceramic bowels or dishes.

Feline Acne: Very common in the Sphynx breed where they form comedones (also known as blackheads) on the underside of the chin and edges of the lips. These symptoms may be associated with plastic or rubber food dishes or bowels. It is common in the Sphynx breed because of their oily skin as well. Some Sphynx owners have used Stridex pads to treat their Sphynx or small quantities of benzoyl peroxide. Please see your vet and get their advice on this before hand.

Stud Tail: This is caused by glands near the tail that excrete excessive oils. The result is a greasy, rancid-smelling waxy brown material at the top of the tail near the base. This condition is most often often found in Un-neutered males, but fixed males and females can get it as well. Treatment involves neutering your Sphynx cat, and a daily wash with an antiseborrheic shampoo. Please see your vet and get their advice on treatment.

Sunburn: The Sphynx cats are very prone to sunburn and should be kept out of direct sunlight during peek sunlight hours if possible, usually between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. to reduce the risk of sunburn and minimize the long-term risk of developing skin cancers. The symptoms of too much sun usually consists of blotchy brown spots, redness or patches of red in the torso area or red bumps (heat rash) on the body. You could also put a shirt on them during thee hours as well for protection. There are safe natural oils on the market that can make for natural sun block also.

Just bear in mind that when it comes to any form of skin condition on your Sphynx cat ask yourself; What has changed recently in my household that could of caused my Sphynx to get a rash or irritated skin?

1.Diet (Food or snacks)
2. Laundry soap (Perhaps you washed their favorite blanket or bed)
3. Pet Shampoo
4. New Medication
5. Water bowl or dish
6. Cleaning chemicals (Just cleaned the tub with a cleaner where your Sphynx frequently goes to drink from the drippy tub faucet?)

Always see a your vet when in question!

Sphynx Cat Community

Pet Photography Tips

Most amateur pet photographers put the camera settings on “automatic” and shoot away in the auto setting; Generally getting sharp “ok” photos. If you want a high-quality portrait of your pet, you will need to take more control of your camera’s functions. If you are like me, you have no idea what f-stop is or shutter speed or how about aperture? Any way i thought i would come up with a kind of “amateur pet photographer” tutorial and I will keep it simple.

1. Lighting– Lighting is key! Outside photos work best on pets but if your inside try to get extra lighting in darker rooms. Bring a plug in lamp or two to light up that dark room. Try to avoid flash when possible or you will get the “green” or “red” eye.

2. Position– Get down low with pets unless you have an elephant or lion as a pet. Lay down on the carpet or floor in different positions or angles until you get that perfect shot. Always try to focus on the eyes in a photo. Don’t be afraid to take a paw shot or half the face with a great whisker shot or in the Sphynx cats case the “broken whisker” shot!

3. Digital camera settings– I will make this as easy as possible for the best “auto” results.

A. Portrait shots– use the “portrait” feature. on your camera it usually has an icon of a persons face. This will focus on your pet and leave the background a little “fuzzy” or “out of focus”.

B. Action shots– How about those “tongue out of mouth” shots or the famous yawning cat shots. You want to put your camera setting on the icon of the “skier” or “sports” type icon. This will give you a faster shutter speed for action.

Tip: Never delete photos on your digital camera while you are in the shooting session! what looks horrible on a 2″ LCD screen may be a wonderful photo on your desktop computer.

Sphynx Cat Community

Naked Careers!

We thought we would feature a video on some ideas for Sphynx owners who may want to see what career opportunities are available for their Sphynx cats.

My new Sphynx kitten has Ear Mites!

Well, as some of you may know from experience if you have owned this breed for a while and have had one, two, or three of these wonderful creatures then you may remember when you first took your little cute baby Sphynx kitten home and followed your breeders contract and went to the vet within 48 hours. You may have experienced this….. EAR MITES!

What are ear mites you say? Ear mites are a tiny spider like parasite that infect the ears of dogs and cats. They usually live in the ear canals but can live on other parts of the dog or cat’s body as well. Ear mites are the most common cause of ear infections seen by vets in cats and dogs.

Ear mites thrive in the warm moist area where there isn’t much air flow. They feed on epidermal debris & ear wax. Ear mites burrow into the ear, causing inflammation and irritation which the body responds to by producing more wax.

You say to yourself, “Oh my god! How can these people sell me a Sphynx kitten infested with ear mites!” Well, although this may be the case, it generally is not with the Sphynx breed. Because of the lack of hair inside the ear like most cats they already have lots of dirt and wax build up so when seeing the vet, especially a vet who has never had experience with the Sphynx breed, this is their first diagnosis, “EAR MITES!”

Because of how quickly the build up of wax and debris your Sphynx cat will encounter on a weekly basis, you need to clean your Sphynx cat’s ears, and we recommend to clean them at bath time. Here is a great video on cleaning Sphynx kittens ears. We use Epi-Otic ear cleaning solution which can be purchased through your vet or online.

What are the symptoms? Ear mites are very uncomfortable for your Sphynx cat. Imagine how it would feel having thousands of little spider like creatures running around in one of your most sensitive areas of the body, the ear. Usually the first symptom you notice will be your Sphynx cat scratching his ears or shaking his head like a mad cat.

You may notice that your Sphynx cat’s ears are flattened or laid back like the cat from “Pet Cemetery”. His ears may be painful to touch and he may cry or hiss when you touch them or while he is scratching them. You may also notice a foul odor coming from your cat’s ears.

Cats may cause damage to their ears by scratching them. Often their ears will bleed as a result of this. They may also shake their ears with such intensity that small blood vessels are broken. So you need to see the vet if any of these symptoms persist!

If you have a look inside the ear of an infected Sphynx cat you will see dark reddish brown or black debris throughout the ear canal which has been described as looking like coffee grounds. This debris comprises of ear wax, blood and Ear mites are visible to the naked eye and can be seen as white dots among the dark debris. You may even see them moving around.

Your vet will look in your cat’s ear with an otoscope and may inspect the debris from the ear under a microscope for a definite diagnosis. Ear mite infections can be serious if left untreated resulting in damage to the ear canals.

So if you are a new Sphynx owner and the vet instantly diagnosis your cute little brand new baby Sphynx and his dirty little ears with Ear mites, be sure your vet takes a look under the microscope before phoning your breeder and telling them how filthy their animals are! And how dare they sell a kitten in this condition!

By the way, It does not hurt to treat an animal for ear mites “just in case” either.

Always see your vet when in question!

Sphynx Cat Community

Sphynx Shampoo, is there such a thing?

Absolutely!
Sphynx Suds shampoo for the “naturally naked” is an all natural shampoo blended with natural oils specifically formulated to clean and moisturize your Sphynx cat. Sphynx Suds is an all natural alternative to the “average” pet shampoo that sometimes contain harsh chemicals. Oh yeah, Sphynx Suds works great on all “naturally naked” pets, dogs, cats and even the “furry” pets too! So you don’t have to buy numerous pet products, one for hairless, one for hair, one for dry skin one for oily skin and so on, Sphynx Suds does it all!

If you own a Sphynx already, you know what bath time consist of. If you do not own a Sphynx yet you will soon find that depending on your kitty, it is a time you will not generally look forward to.
Although some Sphynx owners are lucky and get that sweet little Sphynx that sits there and absolutely loves bath time, let me tell you something, Not mine! If you have been a Sphynx owner for a while you have found that either a certain “dish detergent” soap works ok, or perhaps a “gentle” baby shampoo does a little something, I guess? But most of the old timers wise to the oily little critters just oil up the old cat with a bucket of messy, sticky, slippery coconut oil before bath time, and yes it generally works good, the coconut does loosen up the natural oil (sebum )and dirt that the Sphynx naturally accumulates, but it’s not fun to work with as described above, messy, sticky, and slippery, not to mention an “extra” step!

As a Sphynx owner you will soon find most Sphynx require a bath once a week. However we do not recommend bathing your Sphynx more than once a week. If you can go longer than a week without a bath thats great! The reason why we do not recommend more than once a week bathing is that every time you bath your Sphynx, you remove the natural oils (sebum) that protect your pet, it also leaves your pet susceptible to bacteria and possible infection. Sebum is the natural oil that protects your Sphynx skin. These oils are removed during bathing as does the dirt that sticks to the oil, the allergens and dander. So when bathing your Sphynx the removing of the sebum is normal as with any shampoo. Sphynx Suds also extends the time frame between bathing your Sphynx by keeping them cleaner longer!

Sphynx Suds is an all natural shampoo blended with all natural oils that will moisturize and refresh your Sphynx skin. It does not contain the harsh chemicals that “average” pet shampoos or even “human” shampoos put in their ingredients. Humans have a much different skin balance then the Sphynx cat.

Nothing will remove the oils and dirt like Sphynx Suds. Trust us we have tried everything! The work out of applying coconut then shampoo then rinse is great, but in actuality, besides messy and time consuming, the coconut oil will in fact draw more dirt to your Sphynx quicker then just bathing them with just good old shampoo. As far as “dish detergent” we do not recommend it due to its “repeated” use of harsh chemicals that are not safe for weekly use on your precious Sphynx. So when you see an animal being washed on television with “dish soap” remember, that animal is only being washed once then let back into the wild, not every week like you Sphynx.

To sum it up Sphynx Suds pet shampoo is an all natural superior alternative to any pet shampoo on the market that can be used on all of your pets! But you wanna know the best thing about Sphynx Suds? It’s the only Sphynx shampoo in the world that actually does what it’s suppose to. It works miracles on the Sphynx cat!

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Multi-Sphynx Cat homes and litter boxes

If you have a “multi-Sphynx cat home” especially if you have acquired a “newer” or “older” sphynx kitty and find that suddenly one of your companions is peeing outside the litter box you will probably stand scratching your head and wondering to your self “hmmm, he or she did not do this before, why now?”

Well, first things first, you need to see your vet and rule out a medical problem like a UTI (urinary tract infection) once it is confirmed that your sphynx kitty is healthy you need to find if the problem may be the Alpha cat issue.

First off, you should have the same number of boxes as you have Sphynx cats. It’s also very important to strategically place the litter boxes throughout the house and not have them all lined up in one room or area.
A lower-ranking sphynxcat may not feel comfortable crossing the path of an Alpha Sphynx cat. This could result in the lower-ranking cat holding his or her urine for a long period time thus causing him or her to urinate outside of the box in an area where he or she feels safer.
Some Alpha sphynx cats can intimidate lower-ranking cats by displaying an almost guarding like behavior in the litter box area, so by using this information you may stop or deter either the alpha or lower-rank sphynx cat from “peeing outside of the box” behavior which can be smelly and messy!

Sphynx Cat Community

Sphynx Cats with Diarrhea

So you’re doing your everyday business cleaning the house, or working from home on your computer and suddenly you hear a sound of running water from your precious Sphynx litter box with a horrific smell that literally chases you and your other family members from the room! Diarrhea or any other bowel issues can be caused by many things like IBS (irritable bowel syndrome) but too many times there is one little pain in the but parasite that goes untreated or misdiagnosed, that would be called Giardia.

What is Giardia you ask?

If your Sphynx has these symptoms, chronic diarrhea, horrible smelly poop, soft stools, bloody diarrhea, and sometimes even vomiting it’s quit possible he or she has Giardia. The parasite lives in the intestinal tract and causes damage to the intestines. Giardia is commonly seen in young cats confined together in groups, such as a cattery, kennels, shelters, and pet stores.

Symptoms

Diarrhea is the most common sign of infection. Some cats may vomit in addition to the diarrhea. Weight loss may occur secondary to the diarrhea. The cat may still have a good appetite as well but still have the diarrhea. In many instances, a cat may be infected with Giardia, but show no clinical signs at all. So when you tell your vet after days and weeks of chronic, smelly diarrhea that you think it may be Giardia, and he or she shakes their head no, insist he or she prescribe treatment for your sphynx which generally would be Metronidazole (Flagyl).

Diagnosis

There are several ways to diagnose Giardia infection. The most common methods involve analysis of a fecal smear. Direct analysis of a fecal sample may lead to a quick diagnosis. A fecal sample can also be sent to a diagnostic laboratory for more sophisticated testing. Many vets misdiagnose Giardia because sometimes it takes several samples to show positive! So do not take no for an answer!

Treatment

Metronidazole (Flagyl) has been used extensively to treat Giardia in dogs and cats, as well as in people. This drug has an added advantage of being effective against other protozoans and some bacteria that might also be contributing to the diarrhea. Side effects involving the nervous system have been reported in some animals, although this is uncommon. Cats with Giardia need to have their prescribed medication administered faithfully. High fiber diets often provide additional help in controlling the diarrhea along with pumpkin. If you have other pets, all animals should be treated to prevent reinfection or transfer back into the home. Bathing all animals infected is recommended before introducing them into an uncontaminated environment which allows for removal of feces and infective cysts from the hair, coat or in the Sphynx case skin.

Prevention

Decontamination is recommended in multiple pet households and in crowding situations (kennels, a cattery, shelters, or pet stores), proper sanitation is key to prevent cross contamination from one animal to another. All fecal material needs to be removed from cages, runs, and yard. Kennels and cages need to be cleaned with proper disinfectants and let totally dry before allowing animals back into them.

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